One of the lesser-known methods of BBQ cooking, Santa Maria style originates from the central California coast. While the smoky ribs and sticky sauces of the BBQ belt are famous from coast to coast, Santa Maria enjoys a quieter, but equally devoted, following of restaurant chefs, foodies, and home cooks.
The history of the area is the key to understanding the cooking style. In the middle of the 19th century, Mexican cowboys, or Vaqueros, were living in the area. They raised herds of cattle around the Santa Maria valley. When they wanted to have a big party, they would create large trenches and, using the oak and willow trees in the area, they would grill up lots of beef.
As time went on, changes came to the area. The region became part of the state of California and the population underwent a dramatic shift. Cut to the 1930s and the area is famous for its cooking style, especially as served at the Santa Maria Club. The owners further developed the method, moving on from the pits of the cowboy past. At the club, they cooked the meats on metal bars, over a fire made of local oak trees.
Santa Maria barbecue is not technically a kind of barbecue at all! While it is decidedly part of the canon of American BBQ, it is actually a style of grilling. The meat is cooked by direct flame, even if it is strung up above the heat source. This makes it one of the healthiest ways to enjoy a cookout because it releases a lot of fat and grease in the cooking process.
While the cooking method underwent this evolution, so did the grills themselves. To get that perfectly grilled, lightly smoky flavor, adjustable grills were created. They basically consist of a large pit-like opening to be filled with the oak, and an adjustable bar going across for the meat to hang on.
Lastly, and some would argue most importantly, we come to the meat. With its beefy, cowboy roots, it’s no surprise that Santa Maria barbecue culture gave the world the gift of tri-tips. The story goes that a local market owner, a man by the name of Bob Schultz, decided to make use of his sirloin tip cut of beef. This was a part of the animal that was usually ground into burgers or used for stew. Schultz employed the Santa Maria style on the tri-tip and served it up like steak. It is not a very tough cut, like a brisket, and it’s not fatty like ribs, so it cooks relatively quickly for BBQ meat. This is what makes it perfect for the adjustable woodfire grills of the region.
You can create these flavors at home by using a simple dry rub on your beef, and a hot, wood fire made with oak wood or chips. If you are using a tri-tip, make sure to get instructions on slicing from your butcher, as it can be tricky. This method is great with any quicker-cooking meat, such as chicken breasts or sausages as well.
